DIY Moonrocks, AKA Caviar Gold!

moon rocks
Moon Rock process

Moonrocks, also known as Caviar Gold, are considered a rare delicacy in the cannabis connoisseur market. These tiny pebbles hold a lot of weight, and come with a price tag to match. In this tutorial we will show you how to make them!

Now before we get started, there are some things to consider. First of all, MAKE SURE YOU ARE USING HIGH QUALITY INGREDIENTS! I can’t stress this enough. Anything less than top shelf flower, wax or oil, and dry sift will create a subpar product. In the short term this might not seem like a problem if you are trying to make a quick buck, but check game. If you’re making this product to sell (HighWrites does not condone the sales of illegal products, please consult local laws, and do whatever you do at your own risk.) to a club or friends, or for patients, using less than top shelf material will give your clientele a bad taste in their mouths, literally and figuratively, leading to a drop in demand for product, a drop in your sales, and overall loss of profit. When done properly, moonrocks are very heavy, and so when people spend money on them and the high isn’t over the top, they rarely spend money on them again. All right, lets get it.


Cannabis Flowers, aka nugs. While it is up to you what size you want to make, I find that smaller, ¼ to ½ gram nugs work best. Perfectly cured, won’t crumble easily but dry enough to smoke, nugs work best. If they are too dry they still work, but can break off in the oil and make a mess. If they are too moist, the moisture is locked in and can create mold. Nobody wants moldy Moonrocks. I also prefer denser nugs, as the oil doesn’t soak all the way through, most people want to be able to break it open and see some untouched green in the middle.

Cannabis oil. This can be made in any way, heat pressed, BHO, CO2 extraction, quick wash ISO, ect. Just make sure it is fully purged and of good quality! I prefer heat press, because it is solventless and convenient for me, but BHO that has been through a proper vacuum purge is just as tasty, in my honest opinion. One thing that’s nice about moonrocks is that you don’t have the critic judging your oil by how light or clear it is. Those who have used heat extraction know that sometimes the darker stuff is just as good, if not better than the ultra blond. I think it’s because it holds more terpenes.

Dry Sift, aka keef. This is where a lot of people mess up their moonrocks. Ground up shake is not keef, nor is the stuff at the bottom of your bag! The keef you use should be sifted through no larger than a 125 micron screen. There are plenty of products on the market for dry sifting, the one I use is called a Tumble Now Rotator, which I bought almost 10 years ago for around $400, but these machines can be made at home for a lot less, perhaps I’ll make one and put up a tutorial in the future!


Parchment paper. Not much is needed, just enough to make your self a nice little placemat/work area.  I prefer the kind with the grids, only because I use it for rosin pressing too and the lines are nice for keeping my paper size consistent when making cuts. DO NOT USE WAX PAPER!

Chopsticks. You can also use stems, or even a large pair of tweezers or prongs. I prefer the sticks because you’re trying to get as little oil rubbed off on your utensil as possible. For me they also give me more control of what I’m doing, but I’m a ninja, I can catch a fly with chopsticks.

Stainless Steel Bowl. This is for heating up the oil. You want a small bowl, no bigger than cereal bowl size. You can also use glass, I prefer stainless steel, it’s sturdy, even though we aren’t heating it up to glass shattering temperatures, I’ve had glass break easy before in random situations, stainless steel doesn’t do that.

Coffee Mug Warmer. There are other ways to heat up the oil, but this seems to work the best for me, simple setup, doesn’t take much space, and keeps it at a good temperature, not too hot! And that’s it! Time to cook!

moon rock materials
Materials ready for action…

​​Step 1: Setup. Lay down a sheet of parchment paper over your area, put your extracted wax/oil/shatter in the bowl and put the bowl on the coffee warmer. You want it to heat up to a nice liquid consistency. Make sure to stir it occasionally, to distribute the heat evenly. Make a pile of dry sift on your parchment paper, and get your nugs ready for action.

wax warming
Wax warming up…

Step 2: Once you got your oil nice and hot, drop a nug or two into the oil. Using your chopsticks, roll the nugs around until they are completely coated with the oil.

moon rocks
make sure nugs are completely covered


Step 3: Now, lift the nugs out of the oil with the chopsticks and drop them into the pile of keef. Gently push them around in the keef until they are fully coated, so you can’t see any of the oil. I like to drop them on the paper to shake off spots where too much keef might have clumped up, just to make sure they aren’t covering any spots I might have missed.

moon rocks
roll coated nugs in keep

​​Step 4: Repeat until finished. I like to roll them all in another layer of keef once they have cooled a bit, as the wax settles and leaves some dark spots. Wait until they are fully cooled before putting them in jars. It should also be noted that, like all cannabis products, you do not want to store these in light, or the heat. A cool dark place is best. But especially for moonrocks, as they can melt together in the heat.

moonrocks caviar gold
Finished product, ready to smoke!

​​So there you have it! Next level recipe brought to you by HighWrites! If you have any tips or other methods used while making these I’d love to hear it, Im always trying to gain new knowledge. Leave a comment and let me know how it went for you or if you have any questions. Hope you enjoy!

Broad and Russet Mites: Fighting The Cannabis Plague (and winning!)

russet mites
This leaf is infested with russet mites…

Back in the day, we called spider mites “The Borg!” Now there is a few kinds of mites that have recently taken the grow industry by storm, and compared to these little devils, spider mites are care bears. Some people are shutting down their grows, burning down grow rooms, and even going as extreme as relocating. Broad and russet mites are becoming ever more present, from what I here, and this could be a rumor but I doubt it, they are using them as road side weed control, spraying them on the sides of the roads in many areas to kill off plants. As they become more prevalent  more and more gardens are seeing them. They are light enough to be carried by the wind, and are known to catch rides with other insects, including leaf hoppers, flies, and thrips. But there is hope after all….

broad mite damage
Broad Mite damage

Identifying: Before you go crazy with the flame thrower, first thing you should do make sure your diagnosis is correct. The mites inject a poison into the plant that makes it easier to eat, and what we usually see is the plants reaction to the poison; leaves curled up, yellowing scraggily new growth, and rigid leaf surface.

While russet mites are slightly easier to see than broads, both can be easily identified with the help of a USB microscope.

usb microscope
USB Microscope plugs into computer for a closer look…

They range in cost from $15-40, but the cheaper ones work just fine. It plugs into the usb port on your computer, then the image comes up in your photo-booth or whatever viewer you use. with them you can also take videos or pictures to store, very useful tool. Here you get a closer look at some russet mites, they little sickle shaped dots… Russets are easier to see, broad mites are roundish, transparent, and move faster.

Russets at work, poisoning your plant​​

​​So How Do I Beat Them?

Indoors: These mites are way easier to fight indoors. The key is to catch them early. If you have them mid to late flower, the best option is to chop. Green Cleaner and a few poisons say you can spray up to the day of harvest, but I don’t recommend it. If your closer to the middle than the late flower though, like anywhere in flower up to 5 or 6 weeks green cleaner is probably your best bet, but you most likely won’t kill them all and will have to give your room a thorough clean before adding new plants to the mix. While in veg, Hot Shot No-Pest Strips work great at completely annihilating these bugs. But Please take head to the warning labels on the package!

no pest strip
No Pest Strips, for veg only!

These are NOT for use in your home. So the way I do it, is to put my plants in a grow tent or a shed, or even a cabinet outside. I use a plastic storage shelf I have from home depot from way back. I put the plants in, close it in with 2 0r 3 No Pest Strips, put a tarp over them and then leave them in there for at least 24 hours. You want to make sure air isnt circulating so the poison has a chance to build up in this time.The key is to have enough of them in the area, so in a large bin 1 0r 2 will be fine but in a shed or large tent you’d probably want 5 or 6.  When I bring them back under the light I make sure the lights are raised up. In the meantime, I spray down my whole grow room and all around it with bleach. I also raise the temperatures in the tent as high as I can get them while the plants are going through their treatment.

After your plants are reintroduced, letting loose some beneficial insects is recommended, but not necessary if you keep a clean environment. I like to, just incase some catch a ride from the grow shop or outdoor bushes, or a damn house fly. Another method that works, is to increase the temperature of your grow room to 120 degrees fahrenheit, and hold that temperature for a good hour or two. If you choose this method, remember the whole room has to reach this temperature, not just the tops, if your lights cant do it a heater is a good option. MAKE SURE if you use this method you turn off any fans inside the grow room, as any air movement on the leaf surfaces will fry your plants. When I’m done with the poison treatment I put the strips in ziplock freezer bags and store somewhere dark and cool and out of reach of children or pets.


Outdoors: Outdoors is a lot more difficult, mainly due to the size, as well as the likeliness that they have spread to surrounding foliage. The method that worked best for me was wettable sulfur, I used the Bonnide brand. 1-2 tablespoons sprayed on plants, preferably with a fogger or paint sprayer, every 2-3 days, for 2-3 weeks. CAUTION: Sulfur is harmful to humans, only use this method in veg, and follow precautions on the bag. MAKE SURE you spray after the sun is down, and not early in the morning, only in the evening, or you will fry your plants. Also make sure you don’t use any oil based sprays on your plants within 2 weeks before or after sulfur application, or you’ll fry your plants. Releasing predator mites afterward could help too. If you are in flower, the only product that worked for me was green cleaner, and it never fully got rid of them, but enough to finish up the harvest.


One More Thing: Whether indoors or out, when dealing with russet or broad mites, a watering once a week with 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of salicylic acid, or one aspirin pill (same thing) per gallon of water will help the plants deal with the poison the mites inject.

​I have a friend who claims he just let the mites live on and still had a successful bumper crop using only salicylic acid, but I wouldn’t try that. I’d rather kill them off as well, but it definitely counters the damage done by them.

So, there you have it! I’m sure people have had success with some other products too, but this is my regimen. All products are linked to Amazon for purchasing convenience, if you use the link I get a few pennies too. Please feel free to comment with any other methods that have worked for you. Also comment what DIDN’T work, so we know what not to try! Next on the list of bugs we kill: Root Aphids! Stay tuned…